The name “Primitivo” may lead you to think that this variety of Southern Italian wine is somehow plain, homespun and, well, primitive. This episode of Wine Library TV with the irrepressible Gary Vaynerchuk will persuade you otherwise — perhaps even enough to make you irrepressibly jump into your car and hunt one down, or hunt down at least two out of the three that Gary reviews.
First a little background, via the gurus at the Professional Friends of Wine website. Primitivo is associated with the more widely known and popular Zinfandel — a “genetic twin” some say, although there’s intense controversy within wine circles exactly how close that association is.
Be that as it may, Primitivo has distinct charms that make it one of the “most exciting” and well-priced Italian wines you can find, says Gary.
We begin with the least expensive on the list, the Villa Fanelli Primitivo Zeta Primitivo di Manduria ($8), which serves up of a lot of earth tones and “massive explosive fruit” — some “serious” complexity for a wine this price.
Next comes a 2005 Felline Primitivo Di Manduria Primitivo di Manduria ($12), which has nose of “Orangina” and black tea that Gary likes “a whole lot.” But then, hold onto your seats, Gary takes a slug and he himself becomes explosive, so to speak — effusively praising its “Asian spice at its finest,” its “enormous component of black tea.”
In case you need more convincing: “This is awesome,” Gary says. “Tastes like $40 to $50 wine. Seek this out!”
But, unfortunately, don’t seek out the final selection, a 2004 Savese Picchieri Primitivo Terrarossa Primitivo di Manduria ($17), which begins with a tasty promise of chocolate and strawberries but finishes “short and artificial.” Gary’s verdict: At this price, “pass.”
Tip: Print out the list, bring it to your local wine shop and ask for something similar if a specific bottle isn’t available.
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A great way to learn about wines is to watch an expert taste, rate and describe them. Selections are picked because the topic is timely or seems particularly interesting. Each week a new clip, via Viddler, WNR’s player of choice because it lets you add your own comments.
Looking for more? It’s called Wine Library TV for a reason: Visit Gary’s archive for other episodes.
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