Wine News Review

Author: vinothekid

  • An interview with Natalie MacLean: Why wine and the Web make a perfect match

     

    “Wine is bottled poetry.”
    — Robert Louis Stevenson

     

    Lucky for me, Red, White and Drunk All Over by Natalie MacLean was one of the first books I picked up when I started thinking about doing a wine blog.

    For MacLean, writing about wine is not an academic exercise, a parsing of the chemical responses upon the tongue, a conjugation of fruit groups or a diagram of geographical factors. Important though they are to figuring out how and why certain flavors and aromas play out on the senses, those elements alone are a flat description of a particular wine’s character.

    Natalie MacLean
    Natalie MacLean, named the World’s Best Drink Writer at the World Food Media Awards, has won four James Beard Journalism Awards, including the MFK Fisher Distinguished Writing Award.

    As MacLean explains in the chapter “The Making of a Wine Lover,” what really counts — what adds depth to the description — is “the way a glass of wine makes me feel.” Like the liveliness that infuses a thirst-quenching vintage, the book’s sensual dimension makes the act of learning and writing about wine seem like great fun to a would-be blogger.

    The book was encouraging in a couple other ways, too.

    First of all, there’s MacLean’s confidence-enhancing personal story — how one of today’s superstars in the field stumbled her way through an introductory tasting course but would eventually learn enough to securely hold her own in the presence of the fiercely opinionated French wine figure Lalou Bize-Leroy, known as “La Tigresse,” who makes it a point to openly scoff at wine writers.

    Last but not least is the example MacLean set in launching her own website, Nat Decants, and thereby demonstrating what a perfect match wine and the Internet make. The site features regularly updated wine picks, instructive articles, access to a monthly free electronic newsletter (with 75,000 subscribers) and a Wine & Food Matcher boasting a database of 360,000 wine-food pairings.

    Thanks to the Web, it has never been easier to become knowledgeable about wine and to connect with others who share an interest in it, as MacLean notes in her book.

    This article itself is proof of Web’s connection-building power. Imagine my surprise when, out of the blue, I got an e-mail message from MacLean thanking me for quoting her review of a Babich sauvignon blanc in one of my posts. Like any self-respecting blogger, I immediately asked her for an interview, to help flesh out some of the thoughts from her book about the relationship between the Web and the world of wine. Here’s our e-mail Q&A:

    VTK: What’s been the Web’s main impact on the wine consumer and producer?

    NM: The web has helped to democratize wine: There’s so much information online that anyone anywhere can learn about it. It’s also helped wine lovers who share a passion to “meet” through chat groups, forums and blogs.

    VTK: How has it affected your work and personal discoveries about wine?

    NM: The Internet helps tremendously when I’m researching an obscure subject. As well, I often ask the subscribers to my free e-newsletter for their help.

    VTK: With so many brands, varieties and vintages available through the Internet, it may at times feel a little bewildering for the average consumer. What should they do to make the best choices and take full advantage of all the information out there?

    NM: I think that consumers still need to find someone to trust as their guide. Just as they might follow a particular columnist in their local paper, they might also try finding a website or blogger whose taste they share.

    VTK: Why did you decide to create a website?

    NM: To connect more immediately with my readers in a way I can’t do through print. They hit reply and instantly let me know what they think of what I’ve written.

    VTK: What’s been your experience so far, in terms of audience engagement, personal satisfaction and other return for the time and effort? Any anecdotes you can share?

    NM: There’s nothing more satisfying than being connected online with my readers. Writing is a lonely job and they often sustain me through their comments and e-mails. One particular note stands out: A gentleman who is blind in Chicago subscribes to my newsletter. His computer reads it aloud to him. He’s hoping to become a sommelier.

    VTK: What wine-related sites are your favorites?

    NM: I like wine-searcher.com for finding wines and their prices. I also enjoy following the stories and blog of the New York Times columnist Eric Asimov at nytimes.com.

  • Weekend wine list —experts’ picks: From ‘excellent’ fizz to superb Riesling

    Comparing the faves: A survey of recent selections from respected wine experts. Whenever there’s an option, I highlight their more-affordable picks, focusing on possible choices for weekend purchases. Check out their websites for background and other picks:

    2004 Chateau De Cabriac A.O.C. Corbieres, France:
    Natalie MacLean calls it a terrific value, “full-bodied, supple and smooth in texture.” $13.99

    Green Point Vintage Brut 2004 Australia:
    Jancis Robinson says it’s an excellent value, perfect “fizz (for) friends who aren’t champagne snobs.” £12.99

    2005 Bogle Merlot, Calif.:
    Jerry Shriver describes it as a good value, “smooth black cherry flavors, soft texture, not complex but decent varietal character.” About $9

    Firestone Vineyard’s 2006 Central Coast Riesling:
    Edward Deitch calls it a superb buy, with “notes of apricot, white peach, mango and touches of honey and herbs.” $11

    Frey Vineyards 2006 (Mendocino):
    Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher describe it as their best buy (“fresh, real and delightful”) in a great review of inexpensive Pinot Noir, following what they call the Sideways effect. $15.99

    Nothing tempting? Or just not available at the local wine shop?

    Dig into some perennial standbys at SFGate.com’s Top 100 Wines of 2006, the Top 100 of 2006 list (PDF download) from Wine Spectator and the list of 50 Wines You Can Always Trust from Food & Wine.

    Attracted to a bottle that’s advertised in the local paper or sitting on the local wine store shelf?

    Do a little background research with Wine Enthusiast’s free, searchable Wine Buying Guide—either with a specific name or by types and price. For a little extra info, try Robert Parker’s handy Vintage Chart. Or see what the online wine community says about it with the search tools at cork’d, snooth or Wine Log.

    Once you’ve selected the wine, you naturally want to decide what to eat with it. For some savvy guidance, try Natalie MacLean’s Wine & Food Matcher, which boasts a database of 360,000 wine-food pairings.

    Feel free to share your experiences. And of course, enjoy!

     

  • Web sips: Wine headlines, 9/6/07

    Handpicked stories from across the Web …

    Sexy Images, Wacky Names, Fine Art Help Wine Labels Stand Out
    Judging wines by their provocative covers: Like the one for Marilyn fans sporting a “fresh-and-fruity” Norma Jeane.

    Long Island wines get rave reviews 
    Here’s your chance to find out what Wine Advocate, the Wine Enthusiast and The New York Times have in common.

    French wine labels may lie
    It ain’t pretty: “Up to a third of wines sold under France’s regional appellation system might be from an entirely different region.”

    Most Expensive Wines of All Time
    Billed as the highest-priced bottles ever (including the priciest one ever broken), with pictures: Pick one up for $500,000, for a gift basket or something.

    Fall is the best time to harvest deals, including wine
    That’s when “new bottles from last year’s harvest show up on shelves,” says Natalie MacLean, editor of Nat Decants.

    Fine wine enters the mainstream via Target
    Georg Riedel explains why his glasses land on these particular shelves.

    Wine Tip
    Finally an answer to that age old question: “When should you pair food with an unoaked vs. an oaked wine?”

    Wet weather takes toll on French wine harvest
    Can the news get any worse? France is “bracing for one of its smallest grape harvests in 20 years,” a victim of summer storms and plant diseases.

    Thirsty for more news? Follow up this serving of new and notable headlines by digging into continuously updated feeds from national and international news outlets: The focus is on red and white wine bargains.

  • For some camaraderie with that salmon, head to a local wine bar

    Wine is good. Wine with food is even better. And the best place to enjoy both may not be the usual restaurant setting but your local wine bar.

    Case in point: the Idylwood Grill and Wine Bar, tucked away in a suburban Washington, D.C., strip mall that gives a newcomer little hint of the feast that awaits inside.

    Hedi Ben-Abdallah toasts patrons at his Idylwood Grill and Wine Bar. By Denny Gainer
    Hedi Ben-Abdallah toasts patrons at his Idylwood Grill and Wine Bar.
    Photo by Denny Gainer

    A few friends and I recently paid a visit there to sample the wines (the list offers 108 choices, many by the glass) and discovered a gem of a place where fine food, delicious wines and camaraderie embrace. 

    If you have the impression that food might just be an afterthought at an eatery that bills itself as a wine bar, you’ve obviously never tasted Idylwood’s exquisite grilled salmon with hearts of artichoke, gnocchi and pesto sauce.

    Then there’s the atmosphere. A good wine bar is designed to delight the wine-aficionado’s eye as well as the palate. The Idlywood’s warm Mediterranean decor with its ubiquitous wine racks, for example, enhances the pleasure of whatever vintage you’re sipping.

    Most important perhaps is the appreciation you gain for a particular wine when it’s not served by someone whom you think merely read a blurb about it somewhere but instead, like Idlywood partners Hedi Ben-Abdallah and Marco Escudero, can rattle off multiple reasons why they’re recommending it, including the characteristics of soil and climate that impart a special flavor or aroma. As our discussion got more spirited, they even joined in the conversation and tasting, uncorking a couple of their own favorites.

    Which brings me to another point—one other appealing advantage of a wine bar is that it seems to promote highly creative conversations about the wine you’re drinking.

    As it did with the member of our group who described three Pinot Noirs as having the qualities of different types of lovers. To him, a Les Jamelles 2005 from France’s Côte d’Or was a “one night stand” and a Jezebal 2006 from Oregon was “easy to get comfortable with,” but the Argentine Luigi Bosca Reserva 2005 “takes you places” that reveal why one has a lover in the first place.

    For me, either one would have made a yummy complement to the salmon. Whether it was the power of my friend’s suggestion or the wine’s velvety smoothness, my favorite turned out to be the Luigi Bosca, too.

    Another companion, on the other hand, raved about the Les Jamelles’ “complex and elegant” fruit tones and noted that the aromas improved ever so nicely the more it breathed. Then, getting with the program, he added: “Not a woman of mystery—playful.” 

    At a hotel restaurant, by comparison, chances are the discussion would probably have included an appreciative nod to the wine (sadly, picked from a list with far fewer selections) but dwelt mostly on such relatively mundane topics as one’s 401K, some sports team’s woes or the latest home improvement project.

    Thanks to the Web, it’s fairly easy to explore the terroir, so to speak, of wine bars in your area. As a first step, this blog’s custom map provides a user-friendly way to pin down local establishments. Other helpful sources for reviews are Yelp and the wine forum at Chowhound.

    Give a wine bar a try next time you’re in a dining-out mood. Not all wine bars are created equal. But you might get lucky and find a fun-and-festive equivalent of Idylwood in your neighborhood. 

    As for vinothekid, this may be my first wine bar visit blogging for Wine News Review, but it definitely won’t be the last. And how about you? If you’ve found a wine bar you like, share it by posting a comment below.

  • Weekend wine list —experts’ picks: From cheerful Pinot Noir to Syrah

     

    Comparing the faves: A survey of recent selections by respected wine experts. I highlight their more-affordable picks (unless there’s a good reason to do otherwise), focusing on possible choices for weekend purchases. Check out their websites for background and other picks:

    2005 Conundrum Napa Valley, U.S.A.:
    Natalie MacLean says it’s her favorite white pick—with “stunning aromas of white flowers, orange blossom, lychee and honeysuckle.” $28.95

    2006 Oyster Bay Pinot Noir New Zealand:
    Richard Kinssies describes it as “fresh and cheerful with hints of spicy black pepper and a whiff of red cherry and raspberry fruit.” $19

    Viña Tabali Late Harvest Muscat 2005 Limarí, Chile:
    Jancis Robinson calls this a “sweet marvel…invigorating and explosively grapey mouthful!” Around $12 a half

    2005 Concannon “Selected Vineyards” Syrah, Central Coast, Calif.:
    Jerry Shriver says that while it misses the “meatiness of the best Syrahs,” it does a good job compensating with a helping of “sweet blueberry and blackberry flavors.” About $10

    Nothing tempting? Or just not available at the local wine shop?

    Dig into some perennial standbys at SFGate.com’s Top 100 Wines of 2006, the Top 100 of 2006 list (PDF download) from Wine Spectator and the list of 50 Wines You Can Always Trust from Food & Wine.

    Attracted to a bottle that’s advertised in the local paper or sitting on the local wine store shelf?

    Do a little background research with Wine Enthusiast’s free, searchable Wine Buying Guide—either with a specific name or by types and price. For a little extra info, try Robert Parker’s handy Vintage Chart. Or see what the online wine community says about it with the search tools at cork’d, snooth or Wine Log.

    Once you’ve selected the wine, you naturally want to decide what to eat with it. For some savvy guidance, try Natalie MacLean’s Wine & Food Matcher, which boasts a database of 360,000 wine-food pairings.

    Feel free to share your experiences. And last but not least, enjoy!