An earthy bargain — organic wine from Chile’s Colchaqua Valley

Marc, wine assistant at Whole Foods
Marc, wine assistant at Whole Foods

I’m lurking in the $10-and-under section of the local Whole Foods grocery store (true to Wine News Review’s fairly frugal affordability index), thinking I’m in the mood for a certain Montepulciano. Don’t ask me why — at that place and point in time, I think it had something utterly to do with the name.

Say it. Let it roll over you tongue. Monte-pul-ciano. Ah, sweet, seems to almost transport you on wings of gossamer wine to that storied ridge of Monte Poliziano in Tuscany’s province of Sienna. (Read more about it here.)

Anyway, I’m admiring the lovely contours of a bottle of this particular product of that storied region, when Marc, the wine assistant, drops by to chitchat and we kick off a conversation about what he recommends. Right off the bat, he asks me if I’d like to try an organic wine.

Blog Action Day
Blog Action Day

Hmmm. Well, I certainly haven’t forgotten that I recently blogged about organic wines, on Blog Action Day 2007. So, yes, I say, I do like organic wines. He recommends an aptly named Natura Carmenere Valle Colchagua 2005, from Chile’s Emiliana vineyards, grown without the use of pesticides or chemicals.

Hmmm. I admire the bottle’s contours and abstractly artistic label, which advertises “notes of ripe cherries and plums.”

I read a little further. “Organic viticulture bring forth the true characters of the vineyard terroir and allows the grapes to express themselves fully.”

I’m sold.

After taking it home, I do a little research. The Colchaqua Valley, though not as storied as Monte Poliziano, is quite exotic in its own right, as the Emiliana website illustrates. Bounded by the Pacific Ocean to the west and the Andes Mountains to the east, the valley is caressed by an “extraordinary combination of maritime breezes and Andean winds.”

The result is delicious. Not only does the wine provide the advertised fruitiness, there’s a dry, rich, earthy complexity that, well, makes we want to take another sip, even as I type this thing.

Leslie Sbrocco at Wine Review Online seems to have had a similarly positive reaction. About the very same Natura Carmenere 2005, she writes: “An ideal wine to get acquainted with the beauty of Carmenere, Chile’s unique red grape. Most affordably priced versions can be too herbal and earthy, but this wine captures the spicy, dried herbal notes of Carmenere coupled with its sultry texture.”

Priced at around $10-12, the Emiliana Carmenere, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon “bust the current belief that organically grown wines are pricey.”

Colchaqua Valley
Graphic from Emiliana Vineyards

So, thanks, Marc, for a fine recommendation. But truth be told, it wasn’t entirely his salesmanship (excellent though it was) that made me go organic rather than follow my Montepulciano inclination. I was primed, so to speak, by a column by the Dalai Lama in the local paper, The Washington Post, this past weekend.

No, Tenzin Gyatso, the spiritual leader of Tibet, doesn’t appear to be a drinking man. But something he said in that piece struck an organic note, and it may have had a bearing on my decision on what to buy:

The rapid changes in our attitude toward the Earth are also a source of hope. Until recently, we thoughtlessly consumed its resources as if there were no end to them. Now not only individuals but also governments are seeking a new ecological order. I often joke that the moon and stars look beautiful, but if any of us tried to live on them, we would be miserable. This blue planet of ours is the most delightful habitat we know. Its life is our life, its future our future. Now Mother Nature is telling us to cooperate. In the face of such global problems as the greenhouse effect and the deterioration of the ozone layer, individual organizations and single nations are helpless. Our mother is teaching us a lesson in universal responsibility.

Maybe you’re thinking, come on, vinothekid — what possible difference could the purchase of a single bottle of organic wine make?!

The Dalai Lama had a response to that. “Large human movements spring from individual human initiatives,” he wrote. “If you feel that you cannot have much of an effect, the next person may also become discouraged, and a great opportunity will have been lost.”

So there you have it. Oh, and one other thing, I’m adding organic wines to my listing of wine Bargains in the News (right column on the front page). As they say in Monte Poliziano, salute!

Weekend wine list — experts’ picks: From smooth Malbec to juicy Shiraz

Comparing the picks: A survey of recent selections from popular wine experts. Whenever there’s an option, I highlight the more-affordable wines, focusing on possible choices for weekend purchases. Check their websites for full descriptions and other picks:

2006 Alamos Malbec Argentina:
Natalie MacLean — “full-bodied, smooth and supple” — her best value red. $14.95

2006 Hayman & Hill Reserve Selection Riesling, Columbia Valley:
Jerry Shriver — “full of pure, fresh-tasting fruit … an ideal partner for Asian-style seafood dishes.” About $15

Broadbent, Vinho Verde (Portugal) Broadbent Selections NV:
Michael Franz — “the ticket for a bracing, supremely refreshing glass of wine for a warm Indian Summer evening.” He calls it a “striking wine at a strikingly attractive price.” $8

The Little Penguin  Shiraz South Eastern Australia 2006:
Wine Spectator — “smooth and juicy, with pretty blueberry and plum flavors” — with a nice finish, but drink it now. $8

Les Fiefs de Lagrange 2001 St-Julien:
Jancis Robinson — “sappy, lively, very respectable Médoc which has quite enough fruit to counterbalance the ambitious tannin level,” but drink it from spring of next year until 2016. $24.99

Tip: Print out this list and bring it to you local wine shop — even if a specific favorite isn’t available, ask the salesperson to recommend something similar. Or try browsing the latest wine reports from this custom collection of hundreds of news websites — filtered for bargains, continuously updated, and quick and easy to scan:

  • Reds (from Beaujolais to Zinfandel)
  • Whites (from Chablis to Sauvignon Blanc).

To hit closer to home, try WNR’s Advanced Wine Search tool and see what wine finds local columnists and wine experts may be writing about in your area. Once there, just type in your city and state (within quotation marks, as in, “Napa, California”), to get results ranked by relevance.

Or dig into some perennial standbys at SFGate.com’s Top 100 Wines of 2006, the Top 100 of 2006 list (PDF download) from Wine Spectator and the list of 50 Wines You Can Always Trust from Food & Wine.

Attracted to a bottle that’s advertised in the local paper or sitting on the local wine store shelf?

Do a little background research with Wine Enthusiast’s free, searchable Wine Buying Guide—either with a specific name or by types and price. For a little extra info, try Robert Parker’s handy Vintage Chart. Or see what the online wine community says about it with the search tools at cork’d, snooth or Wine Log.

Once you’ve selected the wine, you naturally want to decide what to eat with it. For some savvy guidance, try Natalie MacLean’s Wine & Food Matcher, which boasts a database of 360,000 wine-food pairings.

The Web is about community. So take a moment to comment about your experience with a particular wine — to help steer others to or away from it. And of course, have a great weekend!

Weekend wine list — experts’ picks: From Vinho Verde to dry Riesling

Comparing the picks: A survey of recent selections from popular wine experts. Whenever there’s an option, I highlight the more-affordable wines, focusing on possible choices for weekend purchases. Check their websites for full descriptions and other picks:

2006 Aveleda Follies Vinho Verde 2006 Portugal:
Natalie MacLean — marked by "enticing aromas of grapefruit and citrus" — made from the Alvarinho grape, considered the best for Vinho Verde. Her best value white. $15.95

2006 Forest Glen Pinot Noir, Calif.:
Jerry Shriver — nice "ripe black berry and cherry flavors" but too much oak and one-dimensional. Yet you come "away satisfied and that’s what counts in the end, right?" $11

2004 “Portal Roble” from Bodegas Vinos Pinol (in the Terra Alta region of northeastern Spain):
Edward Deitch — "unusually complex and interesting for the price and reminded me that Spain still offers some of the best wine values." $20

2007 Penfold’s Thomas Hyland Riesling South Australia:
Jay McInerney — "a terrific price-to-quality ratio" for this very dry Riesling "with lime and green apple fruit." $20

Churchill’s Tawny Porto 10 Years Old:
Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg — "aged tawny ports trumpet their maturity on their labels as badges of honor," but here’s one for "those of us looking for the biggest bang for our bucks." $29

Tip: Print out this list and bring it to you local wine shop — even if a specific favorite isn’t available, ask the salesperson to recommend something similar. Or try browsing the latest wine reports from this custom collection of hundreds of news websites — filtered for bargains, continuously updated, and quick and easy to scan:

  • Reds (from Beaujolais to Zinfandel)
  • Whites (from Chablis to Sauvignon Blanc).

To hit closer to home, try WNR’s Advanced Wine Search tool and see what wine finds local columnists and wine experts may be writing about in your area. Once there, just type in your city and state (within quotation marks, as in, "Napa, California"), to get results ranked by relevance.

Or dig into some perennial standbys at SFGate.com’s Top 100 Wines of 2006, the Top 100 of 2006 list (PDF download) from Wine Spectator and the list of 50 Wines You Can Always Trust from Food & Wine.

Attracted to a bottle that’s advertised in the local paper or sitting on the local wine store shelf?

Do a little background research with Wine Enthusiast’s free, searchable Wine Buying Guide — either with a specific name or by types and price. For a little extra info, try Robert Parker’s handy Vintage Chart. Or see what the online wine community says about it with the search tools at cork’d, snooth or Wine Log.

Once you’ve selected the wine, you naturally want to decide what to eat with it. For some savvy guidance, try Natalie MacLean’s Wine & Food Matcher, which boasts a database of 360,000 wine-food pairings.

The Web is about community. So take a moment to comment about your experience with a particular wine — to help steer others to or away from it. And of course, have a great weekend!

Two Buck Chuck’s Italian cousin

People at work are starting to notice that I’ve begun writing a wine blog (who knows what effect my handing out cards has to do with it?).

As a result, I’m getting hot wine tips from various co-workers—like the one who excitedly passed me a Trader Joe’s flyer touting one of the store’s insanely cheap but often surprisingly stupendous-for-the-price wines. This one being the D’Aquino Pinot Grigio delle Venezie 2006.

For some reason, I’d missed that one in the past. So I thanked the co-worker for the hot wine tip and stopped at TJ’s after work to scout out whether the local shop had a bottle in stock.

Silly me. There was a display about eight feet high of it.

They say you can’t judge a book by its cover. But I always—always!—look a bottle over like it’s a legal document.

Hmmm.

Nice shape.

Nice color.

($3.99)

I’m sold.

There have been recent reports about another one of TJ’s insanely cheap but often surprisingly stupendous-for-the-price wines. Namely, the legendary Charles Shaw Chardonnay, aka “Two Buck Chuck,” which sells at the insanely cheap price of $1.99 to $3.49 per bottle, depending on the region.

Turns out, as ABC News reported last month, Two Buck Chuck took the top prize in a prestigious California tasting competition, trouncing 350 other Chardonnays—in California!!

“The characteristics that we look for in our gold medal winner … a nice creamy butter, fruity … it was a delight to taste,” declared 2007 California State Fair Commercial Wine Competition judge Michael Williams.

How legendary is that?!

In fact, a Wine News Review reader yesterday happened to mention it in a comment, ruminating over how it might compare with the “good wines at great prices” sold by an importer spotlighted by uber wine expert Robert Parker in a recent Business Week article.

Gaetano D'Aquino inspects his vines.Gaetano D’Aquino inspects his vines.

The D’Aquino may not be as famous as Two Buck Chuck. But it has a long and cherished history, at least in TJ’s bottom line. The chain says it sells more than 120,000 cases of it in 280 stores every year, which is about as strong a public vote of confidence as any wine might wish for.

The D’Aquino has been on TJ’s shelves for nearly 30 years, from the time when the chain had only 18 stores and Pinot Grigio was not the household name it is today.

Dinner that night also came from TJ’s aisles: Lemon Pepper Pappardelle Pasta with capers and canned Yellowfin tuna, which deliciously complimented the Pinot Grigio’s distinct citrus flavor.

The wine had a lively aroma, was refreshingly light on the palate with a crisp medium dryness. It might not beat out 350 other wines, but it was definitely a winner.

As a reality check, I paid a visit to the online wine community at cork’d and found the wine garnered an 82 score from a reviewer there—not a bad rating but probably an underestimation by several points.

Moral of the story, it pays to tell co-workers you’re into wines.

Web sips: Wine headlines, 8/23/07

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