Weekend wine list — experts’ picks: From crisp Viognier to Veltliner

Comparing the picks: A survey of recent selections from top wine experts. Whenever there’s an option, I highlight the more-affordable wines, focusing on possible choices for weekend purchases. Check their websites for full descriptions and other picks:

2006 Anakena Single Vineyard Viognier Rapel Valley, Chile:
Natalie MacLean — “crisp, well-balanced Viognier,” her best value white. $15.95

2005 Jekel Pinot Noir, Monterey County, Calif.:
Jerry Shriver — “beautiful, soft and light sipper,” not to mention: “Love, love, love this price.” $15

Casa Silva 2005 Carmenère Los Lingues Estate:
Robert Parker — “superb aromatic array” with lots of structure. $7

Domäne Wachau (Freie Weingärtner) ‘Terrassen; Federspiel’ 2006 (Wachau):
Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher — “simply couldn’t believe” the price for for this “fascinating and fine” Austrian Grüner Veltliner. $11.99

2006 J Pinot Gris (J Vineyards and Winery in the Russian River Valley of California’s Sonoma County):
Edward Deitch — “lush and beautiful,” with notes of pear, white peach and strawberry. $20

Gruet Brut NV New Mexico:
Jancis Robinson — “refreshingly zesty and dry,” tastes as though it should cost at least twice its price. $13-$15

2006 Cono Sur Casablanca Valley Sauvignon Blanc:
Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg — “a perfect match of soft, creamy flavors, making it difficult to tell where the oyster ends and the wine begins.” $12

2004 Benziger Family Winery Sonoma County Merlot:
Olivia Wu — “easy to like and easy to drink … it hits all the right Merlot notes” $19

Nothing tempting? Or maybe just not available at the local wine shop? Try browsing the latest wine reports from this custom collection of hundreds of news websites — filtered for bargains, continuously updated, and quick and easy to scan:

  • Reds (from Beaujolais to Zinfandel)
  • Whites (from Chablis to Sauvignon Blanc).

To hit closer to home, try WNR’s Advanced Wine Search tool and see what wine finds local columnists and wine experts may be writing about in your area. Once there, just type in your city and state (within quotation marks, as in, “Napa, California”), to get results ranked by relevance.

Or dig into some perennial standbys at SFGate.com’s Top 100 Wines of 2006, the Top 100 of 2006 list (PDF download) from Wine Spectator and the list of 50 Wines You Can Always Trust from Food & Wine.

Attracted to a bottle that’s advertised in the local paper or sitting on the local wine store shelf?

Do a little background research with Wine Enthusiast’s free, searchable Wine Buying Guide—either with a specific name or by types and price. For a little extra info, try Robert Parker’s handy Vintage Chart. Or see what the online wine community says about it with the search tools at cork’d, snooth or Wine Log.

Once you’ve selected the wine, you naturally want to decide what to eat with it. For some savvy guidance, try Natalie MacLean’s Wine & Food Matcher, which boasts a database of 360,000 wine-food pairings.

The Web is about community. So take a moment to comment about your experience with a particular wine — to help steer others to or away from it. And of course, have a great weekend!

Web sips: Wine headlines, 9/13/07

Handpicked stories from across the Web…

Have wine experts forgotten the virtues of white wine?
Wine diva Jancis Robinson declares: “Dry white wine can be every bit as ‘serious’ as red.” Makes you thirsty just reading about it.

French launch carton of wine with a straw
Sacré bleu! Will it take this junk-food approach to win over France’s declining wine youth market? “…more amusing,” declares a straw-enamored 21-year-old Parisian.

No wine? Wine not?
And yet stateside, wine is making a comeback among college students. “I think it’s more social because you’re not down chugging beer, you’re able to sip,” says an observant Tulsa, Okla., college junior.

Snobless Sipping Where a Glassful Is Just a Glassful
Pay an intoxicating visit to San Francisco’s eclectic wine-bar scene.

Napa couple shares wine profits with the children of fallen soldiers
“No matter how you feel about the war (in Iraq), it’s about the kids.”

Patterning itself after the home of France’s classic Pinot Noir, the Willamette Valley is becoming a wine country destination unto itself
If this mouth-watering review of wines and wineries doesn’t get you packing to Oregon, nothing will.

Montepulciano high and low
The 30 Second Wine Advisor explains the differences in these far-apart Italian reds. Valuable info next time you’ve got a rib-eye ready for the barbecue.

Thirsty for more news? Follow up this serving of new and notable headlines by digging into continuously updated feeds from national and international news outlets: The focus is on red and white wine bargains.

 

For some camaraderie with that salmon, head to a local wine bar

Wine is good. Wine with food is even better. And the best place to enjoy both may not be the usual restaurant setting but your local wine bar.

Case in point: the Idylwood Grill and Wine Bar, tucked away in a suburban Washington, D.C., strip mall that gives a newcomer little hint of the feast that awaits inside.

Hedi Ben-Abdallah toasts patrons at his Idylwood Grill and Wine Bar. By Denny Gainer
Hedi Ben-Abdallah toasts patrons at his Idylwood Grill and Wine Bar.
Photo by Denny Gainer

A few friends and I recently paid a visit there to sample the wines (the list offers 108 choices, many by the glass) and discovered a gem of a place where fine food, delicious wines and camaraderie embrace. 

If you have the impression that food might just be an afterthought at an eatery that bills itself as a wine bar, you’ve obviously never tasted Idylwood’s exquisite grilled salmon with hearts of artichoke, gnocchi and pesto sauce.

Then there’s the atmosphere. A good wine bar is designed to delight the wine-aficionado’s eye as well as the palate. The Idlywood’s warm Mediterranean decor with its ubiquitous wine racks, for example, enhances the pleasure of whatever vintage you’re sipping.

Most important perhaps is the appreciation you gain for a particular wine when it’s not served by someone whom you think merely read a blurb about it somewhere but instead, like Idlywood partners Hedi Ben-Abdallah and Marco Escudero, can rattle off multiple reasons why they’re recommending it, including the characteristics of soil and climate that impart a special flavor or aroma. As our discussion got more spirited, they even joined in the conversation and tasting, uncorking a couple of their own favorites.

Which brings me to another point—one other appealing advantage of a wine bar is that it seems to promote highly creative conversations about the wine you’re drinking.

As it did with the member of our group who described three Pinot Noirs as having the qualities of different types of lovers. To him, a Les Jamelles 2005 from France’s Côte d’Or was a “one night stand” and a Jezebal 2006 from Oregon was “easy to get comfortable with,” but the Argentine Luigi Bosca Reserva 2005 “takes you places” that reveal why one has a lover in the first place.

For me, either one would have made a yummy complement to the salmon. Whether it was the power of my friend’s suggestion or the wine’s velvety smoothness, my favorite turned out to be the Luigi Bosca, too.

Another companion, on the other hand, raved about the Les Jamelles’ “complex and elegant” fruit tones and noted that the aromas improved ever so nicely the more it breathed. Then, getting with the program, he added: “Not a woman of mystery—playful.” 

At a hotel restaurant, by comparison, chances are the discussion would probably have included an appreciative nod to the wine (sadly, picked from a list with far fewer selections) but dwelt mostly on such relatively mundane topics as one’s 401K, some sports team’s woes or the latest home improvement project.

Thanks to the Web, it’s fairly easy to explore the terroir, so to speak, of wine bars in your area. As a first step, this blog’s custom map provides a user-friendly way to pin down local establishments. Other helpful sources for reviews are Yelp and the wine forum at Chowhound.

Give a wine bar a try next time you’re in a dining-out mood. Not all wine bars are created equal. But you might get lucky and find a fun-and-festive equivalent of Idylwood in your neighborhood. 

As for vinothekid, this may be my first wine bar visit blogging for Wine News Review, but it definitely won’t be the last. And how about you? If you’ve found a wine bar you like, share it by posting a comment below.

Wine: Win some, lose some

Out to dinner with some friends, I was paid a high compliment. They allowed me to choose the wine, well aware of the fledgling wine blogger in their midst.

I, too, was well aware—well aware that this was a tough crowd.

'06 Loimer Lois Gruner VeltlinerBut I confidentially picked up the wine list, fairly certain that I could find something decent at this upscale seafood restaurant to accompany our selections of soft-shell crab, salmon and halibut.

My confidence was rewarded when my eyes alighted on none other than an ’06 Loimer “Lois” Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal.

Alert readers will recall that I wrote about Gruner Veltliners in a previous post—about how the Austrian whites have become the “darlings” of Manhattan’s best restaurants lately, about how they’re like drinking “liquid crystal.”

So I ordered it, preening, content that my research for this blog was proving useful not just in cyberspace but in a high-stakes real-world setting, too.

When the chilled bottle arrived, I tasted. Slam dunk! Zesty and incredibly dry, with an earthy mineral touch.

I turned to the companion on my left and was greeted with a broad smile, as he put down the glass to take out a pen and jot down the name for a future purchase.

Serenely, I turned to the right.

“Tinny,” this one said.

Huh?

“Tinny,” he repeated.

This particular friend and I will argue about almost anything, at any time, at the drop of a hat. We sort of enjoy it. But I knew there was no use in trying to convince him otherwise about the wine. What for me was a touch of mineral, for him was tin.

(Frankly, there was little strategic value in arguing because the friend across from me agreed with him.)

Duke Ellington once famously said about music: “If it sounds good, it is good.”

The same could be said about wine—if it tastes good, it is good. And the converse is equally true.

Or as Jancis Robinson says in her book How to Taste:

“Despite what some self-styled ‘connoisseurs’ may suggest, there are no rights or wrongs in wine appreciation. Tasting is in its essence a subjective business. There are some bottles which may, on an objective basis, be technically faulty, but which some tasters may find perfectly enjoyable. There are other famous wines that can count on enough admirers always to command a high price—that most quantifiable of wine measurements—yet they may not appeal at all to all wine drinkers. Never feel that you ‘ought’ to like or dislike a wine. The most important aspect of any wine is that you enjoy it.”

Fortunately, I was given a second chance. This time, deciding on a safe bet, I ordered the Willamette Valley Vineyards 2005 Pinot Noir from Oregon. Smooth and balanced, fruity and dry, like drinking liquid ruby, so to speak.

I looked around and instantly saw that I was redeemed, that I might even be allowed to order wine again at our next night out.