Gimme-your-wine-photo: In this edition, my pal Steve tries to make me drool

Click image for photogallery

Wine Photo of The Day by Stephen Pizzo — Click image for photogallery

Wine Photo of the Day by Stephen Pizzo

This photo from my friend Steve gave me an idea for a new Wine News Review feature — the “gimme-your-wine-photo” edition. Goes like this: You send me a cool wine-related photo, I help make you spectacularly famous, among Wine News Review readers. Here’s where to contact me.

Steve’s e-mail msg was short and sweet: “Hey Sam, here’s a photo of my neighbor’s little vineyard to show your readers what Sonoma County looks like this time of year.” I wrote back and asked whether there was an opening for a grounds keeper. Still waiting for a reply on that.

UPDATE: (10/28/07) — Steve sent over some additional shots — enough for a guest photogallery, which you can see by clicking here. Also Helfer Vineyard’s Patricia Helfer responded, via Steve, to my grounds-keeper query, saying they’re accepting applications for vineyard workers. “Lots of fresh air and exercise.” Tempting.

Anyway, got a photo to share? Gimme!

Going green and liking it — organic wines grow in popularity, quality

Meinklang vineyard scenes
Meinklang vineyard scenes

Let’s be frank about this – the reason we drink wine isn’t just for what wine literati might call the lush aromas and fruity complexities.

Sure, those things are a big part of it. But the main reason I like wine is that it makes me feel good.

At lunch this past Friday, I discovered how to get an even better feeling out of it. I ordered an organic wine.

Knowing that the wine came from an earth-friendly vineyard somehow made it even more pleasurable.

Maybe it was because on that same day the Nobel Peace Prize was awarded for a green cause. Or maybe it was my body subtly telling me something on a deep level.

The wine was a 2006 Meinklang Pinot Noir from Austria, fuller and more darkly aromatic than most other Pinot Noirs I’ve had. My lunch companion seemed surprised and pleased by a Zinfandel richness.

The wine is made by the extended Michlits family on a mixed-agriculture farm using biodynamic principles, in the belief that “vital and robust grapes thriving in healthy, living soil bring exceptional wines of character.”

Biodynamic winegrowing techniques are free of synthetic pesticides and fertilizers. There’s admittedly also a strange mystical quality to some of the practices that followers say are aimed at promoting harmony with nature, like the one that calls for burying a cow horn filled with dung under the vineyard soil.

“Yet before you consign practitioners of biodynamics to the distant corner of your mind reserved for Shirley MacLaine and the weird sisters in ‘Macbeth,’ consider that among the people who practice biodynamic viticulture are some of the world’s great wine producers,” Eric Asimov observed in The New York Times a few years ago.

Not all organic wines are biodynamic. For that matter, not all U.S. wines made with organically grown grapes can be labeled “organic” if there’s been any sulfites added as a preservative, as this San Francisco Chronicle article explains in some detail.

In part because of those stringent labeling requirements, organic wines are still in the minority on wine store shelves in this country, but they have been steadily improving in quality even as they grow more popular and winemakers become more adept at organic methods.

“These eco-friendly wines, in many cases, have moved beyond their funky past,” according to this review by The Wall Street Journal’s Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher. “They’re worth discovering.” Four of the dozen wines they describe in the article were under $15 when they bought them last year.

“Tides are certainly turning as more vintners are discovering that the common-sense approach to both organic and biodynamic growing methods results in not only ‘healthier’ vines, but in wines with greater flavor, more distinct terroir character and at times a noticeable cost-savings on their bottom line,” adds Stacy Slinkard, wine guide at About.com.

In the Cooking Up A Story video below, Dr. Robert Gross of Cooper Mountain Vineyards in Oregon gives a nicely illuminating account of why he runs an entirely organic operation.



Click here if your RSS feed doesn’t display this video.

While doing research for this article, I ran across a Bon Appétit piece from earlier this year that offered as good an explanation as any on why that Meinklang Pinot Noir seemed so extra good to me. The explanation came from Mike Benziger of Sonoma’s Benziger Family Winery.

“We’ve become so disconnected from the environment,” Benziger said. “When we taste a biodynamic wine, we’re able to make that connection back to nature, if only for an instant. And that’s powerful.”

It only seems right. The earth gives us this great gift. We should give something in return.

The Web’s latest wine buzz, 9/24/07

Tune in to what top wine bloggers and experts are decanting into cyberspace with handpicked highlights of their latest and greatest.


“The great wines of the world are expensive and often hard to find,” says Food & Wine. Okay, your first reaction may be, tell us something we didn’t know. This article, however, is well worth a read for what it goes on to say — namely, that it’s possible to find affordable wines that “echo the characteristics of the truly extraordinary.” If, of course, you look hard enough, which is what Ray Isle did for us in his piece aptly entitled Superstars & Super Steals. Nine different pairings are offered — with prices as low as $13 for the affordable-steals class and and as high as $114 for the extraordinaries — for types ranging from Alsace Riesling and white Burgundy to red Bordeaux and Oregon Pinot Noir.

Another penny-pinching reason to drop by Food & Wine is an additional Isle report, this one focusing on an assortment of top Italian wines under $20. Isle wise-crackingly demands our pity for having to taste his way through 187 under-$20 Italian wines. An “exhausting” job, he declares, but eventually admits the assignment was “entirely enjoyable.” Most intriguing of his picks, perhaps, is the 2004 Librandi Cirò Rosso ($10) from the southern Italian region of Calabria. It’s made from the Gaglioppo grape variety, which is obscure virtually everywhere else in the world, Isle observes.

Speaking of penny-pinching, Eric Asimov at The New York Times spotlights a variety of wines that the headline touts as Happiness for $10 or Less. In addition to providing a “Tasting Report: Structure and Personality, With a Small Price Tag” for 10 national and international picks, Asimov serves up some worthwhile insider factoids, such as this interesting peek into restaurant mentality: “The restaurant industry has a longstanding belief that the lowest-priced wine on the list will never sell. Nobody wants to be seen as cheap. But the second-lowest-priced wine, that’s the one people will gobble up.”

There is absolutely nothing cheap about wines produced in the California vineyard sketched by Jay McInerney in House & Garden. This is the story about how the former CEO of Northrop Corporation decided to start a vineyard in what “may qualify as the most unlikely patch of vines in the world.” Or at least the ritziest — the Los Angeles suburb of Bel Air. But make no mistake, Moraga Vineyards is not a rich man’s plaything. We learn that the former sommelier at Alain Ducasse’s three-star restaurant in Paris, Stephane Colling, now the wine director at the Modern in New York, calls Moraga his favorite California winery.

A different winemaker altogether is profiled by Jerry Shriver at USA TODAY: Randall Grahm, who officially calls himself “President for Life” of Bonny Doon Vineyard in Santa Cruz, Calif. “But a more apt title would be ‘Supreme Seeker/Philosopher/Gadfly/Court Jester,’ ” Shriver observes. Now Grahm says he is rethinking his direction, heading into the realm of biodynamics. Grahm’s metamorphosis-in-progress, aka “existential crisis,” is a clicker.

Unlikely Virginia wine pioneers

Robert Giardina pouring wineVirginia’s Eastern Shore may not be the first place that comes to mind when you think about wineries. But it shouldn’t be the last, as I discovered during a recent getaway to Chincoteague and the Assateague Island National Seashore, an area famed for wild ponies and pristine beaches, overflowing seafood and scenic bike rides.

Add Bloxom Winery to the list of attractions, if you have the slightest interest in wine. Not only for the opportunity to take a break from the sunbathing for an afternoon tasting (noon to 5 p.m., Wednesday to Sunday, from June to October) but also to chat with the owners about the unlikely journey that brought them to this peninsula’s sleepy farmlands from the cityscape of New York.

Photos: Stills and slideshow of the tasting room and vineyard.

Map: A satellite’s eye view of the vineyard and Eastern Shore.

Dubbed the “toast of Bloxom” by the local press, the lush six-acre vineyard and adjoining winery sit off a lonely gravel road, a welcoming change from the nondescript soy and corn fields that roll (uh, hold on—I’ve got to take a sip of this Bloxom Merlot—yum!—nice and dry, rich enough to make you feel a warm, satisfying glow amid the arduous demands of wine-blogging)…

Now, where was I? Oh, yeah—you have to wonder how in the world did a winery suddenly appear out of this virtual nowhere?

The answer starts off in the late ‘90s, when Robert Giardina, a Morocco-born home remodler who was fed up with the crummy grapes that were available from California for his homemade wine in the city, learned of a vineyard for sale in the region where he’d vacationed a long time before.

“It was insanity,” Robert says. “I was just looking for a place to grow grapes.”

Bloxom vinesBeing a pioneer wasn’t easy. Many of the vines he imported from a California nursery had to be replaced a couple times, he says. His wife, Francesca, became pregnant (Angelica is five now and speaks the most delightful French). It became clear that another source of revenue had to be found. And thus was born the winery plan.

“I couldn’t let this thing go,” says Robert.

It seems like it was a good bet. Bloxom is producing 900, 12-bottle cases, and the Eastern Shore is achieving greater respect for wine growing. More wineries have sprouted up, with several now within the shore’s Maryland and Virginia sectors—a testament to the favorable sandy soil and mild climatic conditions, with the Atlantic to the east and the Chesapeake Bay on the West lending a protective warmth to the vines’ grip on the earth, according to Wines & Wines.

The result can be tasted—in this case, a bottle of lightly golden Bloxom Chardonnay (fresh, slightly oaky taste, with a whiff of green apples; $16 at the local wine shop) complimenting a takeout seafood feast from Bill’s Restaurant in a hotel room overlooking Chincoteague Bay at sunset.

Think I’ll be going back.